Sultanahmet Square

Posted on July 16, 2023 By Part Time Vagabond

Surrounded by Istanbul’s famed architectural and cultural icons such as Sultanahmet Camii, Ayasofya Camii, Topkapi Palace, and a smattering of other museums, parks, hammams, eateries and cafes, Sultanahmet Square today, is a popular gathering hub for both locals and tourists alike and is the most likely starting place for your Istanbul adventure.

The square was a social center predating the Byzantine Empire, but it is commonly associated with the Byzantines as thousands of them (estimates range from 30,000 to 100,000) are thought to have gathered at a Hippodrome here to enjoy horse and chariot racing. Gambling on these races was commonplace and the races were rare occasions that brought together both the emperor and the every day man. Race teams were closely aligned with religious and political groups, so these races also served as a natural venue for intense debates of politics and social issues. Unfortunately, some of these debates devolved into riots and civil wars, the worst of which were the Nika riots of 532 which claimed the lives of an estimated 30,000 people (the Ayasofya that stands today was also built following this riot as the cathedral that stood at the time was also destroyed during this riot).

While the Hippodrome played a central role in Constantinople for well over a millennium, it was left to decline and decay once the city was taken over by the Ottomans in 1453 as they were not interested in chariot racing. It is thought that the Hippodrome was taken apart stone by stone so the material could be used for other buildings all over present-day Istanbul.

The Hippodrome is said to have been decorated with many statues and monuments, of which only a few survive today. Here are the three most prominent which you can see towards the SW end of the square.

Obelisk of Theodosius: The most prominent of these monuments that still remains today is the Obelisk of Theodosius, which was brought from Egypt in 390. It stands atop a marble pedestal in Sultanahmet Square to this day although what remains today is only 19m high compared to the original 30m. The inscriptions on it are about Theodosius and the erection of the obelisk itself. While placed here in 390 AD, it is thought that this column was actually built in Egypt in 1490 BC, so take a minute to soak in this 3,500 year old monument and appreciate the skill, craftmanship and hard work of those that walked the earth before us.

Serpent Column: This column depicting three intertwined snakes, is told to have been cast to celebrate the victory of the Greeks over the Persians in 5^th century BC. Another theory states that it was erected to ward off an insect invasion of the city. A part of this monument still remains in place and the only surviving snake head is displayed at the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.

The Walled Obelisk: Built in the 10^th century by Emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus at the end of the Hippodrome, the stone core of this monument still survives today.

Towards the northern end of the square, you will also find the Kaiser Wilhelm Fountain which was constructed in 1900 to commemorate German Emperor Wilhelm II’s visit to Istanbul a couple of years earlier. It was further renovated in 2013 and now functions as a clean drinking water fountain.

Spanning a history of almost two millennia, Sultanahmet Square has been a central part of life in this part of the world, including in the lives of many Istanbulites today, and is worth spending an hour strolling around in, people watching, trying some street food, getting some respite from the sun beating down on you, or resting your aching feet between checking out the many tourist sites in the vicinity.

Here’s who helped

While I ONLY write about places that I have visited, I get more information on these places from others, both for my edification and yours. Here are the online resources I used when writing this post.